Cuisine: Upscale, creative new American
Atmosphere: Moody, eclectic eatery
Lamb & Beef Meatballs ($15): With mushroom, crème fraîche, and mint
Lamb Loin Chop ($27): With sauteed spinach, macomber turnips and sweet potato gratin, mint oil, and persimmon sauce
Having lived in Warren for a good portion of my 20s, I always feel sentimental when I go back for a visit, and with each new small business that pops up, I’m proud to see that the spirit of the town motto, “Keep Warren Weird,” is stronger than ever. The recent closure of foodie-favorite Metacom Kitchen, and of 40 Market Street’s former tenant, Hunky Dory, means that newcomer Saint Martha has some big shoes to fill as the town’s newest hot spot eatery.
Right away, I noticed that the decor was fabulously quaint, and as I’d come to find out, thoughtfully sourced. Some features that struck me right away were the golden art deco light fixtures that co-owner Corinne Kelly told me were purchased secondhand from a VFW hall. The unique shape of the lamps provided an upscale glow to the dining room that made my fiance and I feel warm, fuzzy, and fancy.
We were seated at one of the two cozy window booths and greeted by Kelly, also playing the role of gracious maître d’. We wasted no time in ordering cocktails. I had the Many Too Many, a tequila-based drink with persimmon shrub, ginger and kumquat liqueur, rosemary, and egg. My fiance had the Lamb Lies Down on Main Street, a hearty winter cocktail with Scotch, vermouth, and cherry cinnamon cordial. The drinks alone are enough to create a buzz about Saint Martha, which Kelly says happened serendipitously when their bartender offered to curate the cocktail menu based on her own expertise in the biz.
While browsing the menu, we snacked on Schiacciata Dressed Up, a homemade, dense bread with a delicious potato crème fraîche, garnished with rosemary. From a tempting offering of unique small plates, we went with the Smoked Whitefish Croquettes, which were plated over cannellini beans with a pickled onion and roasted garlic aioli – the perfect savory starter.
Kelly also sent out the Lamb & Beef Meatballs that ended up being the stand-out of the night and the dish we recommend when singing Saint Martha’s praises to our family and friends. The meatballs were served in a mushroom cream sauce with a hint of mint and were beautifully tender and bursting with flavor. We also shared the Beet & Hearty Greens to get our veggies in; the buttermilk dressing and sunflower seeds balanced the salad perfectly. We could have stopped there as our taste buds were already satisfied, but as the determined foodie I am, we prevailed.
I had to try the homemade Potato Gnocchi with beef ragu and Parmigiano Reggiano, as I was told it’s one of chef Keith Vanetti’s signature dishes. The pasta soaked up the flavors of the sauce while the cheese held everything together for a punch of flavor in every gooey bite. My fiance had the Lamb Loin Chop that came over sauteed spinach and sweet potato gratin, with mint oil and persimmon sauce. We were both delighted by the abundance of flavor and creative use of ingredients, so much so that we declared then and there that Saint Martha had made our official top-three restaurants.
I can’t go without mentioning the dessert, which was worth it for the visuals alone. The Miso Caramel Pistachio Ice Cream came in a twee green saucer and was garnished with two generously sized pistachio cookies. Even after pushing our appetites to their limit, the dessert was delightful.
While just slightly off the beaten path of Warren’s Water Street, Saint Martha is worth forgoing waterfront views for the evening and instead expanding your horizons to some otherworldly flavors.
40 Market Street, Warren
401-561-0222 • StMarthaRI.com
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