After a life- and palate-changing trip to South America last year, I’ve been on a mission to find an authentic Pisco Sour – a cocktail made with a Peruvian distilled grape spirit – here in Rhode Island. The moment I met Vanessa Saldana, the owner of Qhali Kitchen, and heard about her passion for Peruvian cuisine, I knew I was in the right place. This recent addition to Bristol’s food scene specializes in the vibrant flavors of Peru’s Pacific coast and in a short time has made waves by hosting cooking classes and pisco tastings, along with stirring up talk of its delicious chicken dishes.
On a dreary, cloudy evening, I met my brother at Qhali, where the warmth of the space immediately lifted our spirits. Colorful tapestries draped from the ceiling, floral murals covered the walls, and Latin music pulsed through the speakers. Saldana greeted us with a smile and shared the journey that led her to open Qhali, a successor to her first restaurant, Pollos a la Brasa Beto’s in Boston – named after her father. The recipes at both restaurants are passed down from her mother and grandmother, proud natives of Peru.
Following Saldana’s recommendations, we kicked things off with Pisco Sours, made in the traditional Peruvian style (arguably the best way) with clear pisco, lime juice, simple syrup, egg whites, and bitters. Served in a long-stemmed glass, it was a frothy, tangy perfection, and it paired beautifully with the ceviche, featuring Paiche fish imported from Peru, served alongside sweet potato and choclo, a South American corn with large kernels.
Next, we tried the Pulpo al Grill, a grilled octopus dish I wouldn’t normally order – but I’m so glad we did. The smoky char of the octopus was balanced by a vibrant chimichurri sauce and served with a savory side of potatoes.
For our main course, we shared the Pollo a la Brasa, a 24-hour marinated rotisserie chicken so tender and flavorful that we found ourselves fighting over the crispy skin. What I love about Peruvian cuisine is how it transforms simple ingredients into something unforgettable through meticulous seasoning and preparation. The chicken was served with crispy-on-the-outside, soft-on-the-inside fries that soaked up every last bit of flavor.
As for dessert? Another round of drinks. This time, we opted for Coca Sours, a twist on the classic Pisco Sour made with a liqueur derived from Peruvian coca leaves. It left a slight tingle on the lips and had a rounder, sweeter profile than its pisco-based counterpart. By the end of the night, I was buzzing – from the excitement of finding my new go-to Peruvian spot right here in the East Bay – and perhaps the sours!
34 Gooding Avenue, Bristol
401-253-1294 • QhaliKitchen.com
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