Experience: East Providence’s The Outsider is In

Off the beaten path along South Broadway in East Providence, The Outsider is named fittingly, as it’s easy to pass by without a second thought, but to be in the know – an insider, if you will – is a privilege. The Outsider is a feast for the senses, beginning with an appetizer of sight and sound. Romantic lighting tempered with calming blues, natural wood, plants, and smooth jazz music set the mood, and the walls are a gallery of Impressionist oil paintings of sailboats at sea – painted by Renaissance man Vic Foley, the owner, chef, and artist who was once a nationally touring guitarist, most recently with local band PonyBoy (we see the S.E. Hinton connection).

My dad and I were seated, and seconds later Foley emerged from the kitchen to greet us and offer his special menu of the night, which included a salmon dish with roasted Brussels sprouts that my dad was instantly sold on. Though tempted by the pizza special also on the menu that night, I opted for the Sweet and Spicy Noodles. 

But first, clam chowder. When it arrived, we were hit with mouth-watering aromatics before digging into the substantial bowl. Filled with an abundance of locally sourced delicate clams, soft chunks of potato in a white wine reduction, and sprinkled with herbs – Foley’s take on classic Rhode Island clam chowder is a triumph. With one spoonful, my father declared it was one of the best he’d had in a long time. It was served with a buttery slice of bread, toasted to crispy and soft perfection, which soaked up the broth and became a vehicle to taste every last drop.

Foley repeated the word “beautiful” to describe the flavors and presentation of his dishes, and each time it rang true. We sampled the salmon next: smothered in a tangy white sauce, the generous slice of fish seemed to melt away on my tongue. The Brussels sprouts excelled in their simplicity next to the salmon: fried to a slight char along their cut sides, tossed with garlic and lemon.

The Sweet and Spicy Noodle bowl came with tempura broccoli florets, which had the signature light crispy coating that comes from a mastery of technique, and a chewy, tender inside. The noodles were prepared simply – and the perfect length for chopstick beginners who are hesitant to slurp – which let the warm heat and slight acidity of the housemade sweet and sour sauce shine.

For what seems like a fairly straightforward Rhode Island eatery by its online menu – filled with tantalizing pizzas and grinders – this neighborhood joint pleasantly surprises in presentation and flavor. Through his culinary talents, Foley shows his guests that being an outsider is totally in.

The Outsider

1055 South Broadway, East Providence

401-316-7348

TheOutsiderRI.com