REVIEW

Surf Meets Turf

Quaint dining in Padanaram

Posted

I’ve been meaning to check out Black Bass Grille in South Dartmouth’s Padanaram Village for quite some time, and now that I’ve finally done so, a few tips.

First, the ride into Padanaram Village is a postcard-perfect, quintessentially New England drive. Beautifully landscaped, historic homes line the narrow roads that lead to a commercial center on the banks of Aponnagansett Bay. A great advantage of these quaint, sleepy towns is that the local police are not quite as busy as their urban counterparts. The other side of the coin, however, is that the police notice when you merely “pause” at a stop sign instead of coming to a complete stop. And when said stop sign is located directly in front of the police station, such transgressions are even further frowned upon. So when you visit Black Bass Grille - go slow, keep your eyes open and obey all traffic laws.

Second, Black Bass Grille is kind of small. I’m sure it’s tough to get a table in the summer high season, so if it’s date night, do your best to survey the crowd before committing to a seat to ensure a quiet table. But of course, it’s really all about the food. With the night off to a rough start, I needed a safe dish to reset the mood, so I selected the Portuguese Mussels ($10) – mussels in a sauce of garlic, onion, chourico, kale and lager finished with red chile. Dishes like this exist for one reason and that is the sauce; no matter what protein it’s built around, every last drop of sauce will be mopped up by multiple baskets of bread. These Portuguese Mussels were everything you’d hope a dish like this to be. Our appetizer round also included my dining companion’s Clam Chowder ($5). The menu accurately described a chowder “rich” with clams and potatoes, but with the chowder’s “brothiness” outweighing its “creaminess.”

One of the entrée specials for the night was Chicken and Waffles. I was impressed that they’d offer such a dish, and from what I could see at a nearby table it did look good. I went with the Padanaram Bouillabaisse ($21) – mussels, scallops and fish sautéed with capers, green olives, tomatoes, onion and garlic in a broth served over angel hair pasta. My companion went with the Lobster Alfredo special ($21) – a generous serving of lobster meat on a bed of fettucine alfredo and cherry tomatoes. I never order alfredo dishes due to the caloric guilt factor, but this alfredo sauce was lighter than most without sacrificing all the flavor. We capped off the meal with Key Lime Pie ($6.50) and a Chocolate Mousse special ($6). Although I’m not one for tartness in general, the Key Lime Pie was decadent in that it was heavier like a cheesecake. According to our waitress, it was made by a distributor that only makes key lime pies, so aficionados should definitely give this one a shot. The Chocolate Mousse was made with a Mexican chocolate that had some kick to it, and the cool texture and whipped cream topping made for a delicious night cap.

With summer upon us, the shops and galleries in picturesque Padanaram Village make for a nice, little day trip. You’ll want to fill up your tank along the way - stomach, that is - and Black Bass Grille is a great stop for casual, hearty fuel.

INSIDER TIP: Black Bass Grille offers special menus for events like Mardi Gras, St. Patrick’s Day and the Kentucky Derby. Check their Facebook for what’s cooking next.

Black Bass Grille. 3 Water Street South, Dartmouth. 508-999-6975.

black bass grille, restaurant, review, the bay magazine, food, dining

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